Lewis Moor route Show path on map
Start location: Garry Bridge, Port Geiraha, Lewis ( NB 531 502 )
End location: Unclassified road end, Sgiogarstaigh, Lewis ( NB 543 612 )
Geographical area: Western Isles
Path type: Rural Path
Path distance: 15km
Accessibility info: Suitable for pedestrians
Route Description
The first edition OS 6″ map (1853), shows an intermittent path across the Lewis Moor from Tolsta to Skigersta, which is what we have roughly mapped here. A modern Heritage Trail now also runs from Tolastadh to Sgiogarstaigh: linking various historic sites, it weaves in and out of the older way.
Start at Garry Bridge (NB531501) where there is a signboard for the Heritage Trail. Initially follow a good path to NB533503 which is the first point the older path and modern trail diverge. The older route tends to stay further inland and may now be difficult to find. Much of either route is pathless, but the Heritage Trail less so and has markers with QR codes, so should be easier to follow and is recommended. West of Filiscleitir, the two routes converge for the final time at a track (NB553574). Follow this track north past Cuidhsiadar and on as far as the road end at NB543612, where there is another Heritage Trail sign. Whichever way you choose to cross the moor, it’ll be a stunning but challenging route.
OS Landranger 8 (Stornoway & North Lewis)
Heritage Information
The Lewis Moor is vast - 230 square miles in area. Designated as Common Grazing, it is a vital part of the crofting townships that on a map it looks so remote from. The sheep are grazed on the moor in summer and its peat banks provide fuel. Clear on the OS map are the 'township roads'; each township has at least one of these well-built tracks leading onto the moor, usually made from rocks, pebbles and stones from the beach - "We used to walk up the township road until it gave out, and then continue on across the moor". The Lewis Moor is dotted with shielings, but most are derelict.
The intermittent path on nineteenth century maps can still be seen on satellite imagery, but it is not clear that its line can still be followed from end to end, as it seems to have been largely swallowed by the moor. Reportedly however there are some old posts which it is thought may indicate the line of this route. Peter Clarke's book The Timeless Way (2006) gives more detail on both history and route finding, but additional information would be welcomed by the Heritage Paths project.
In 1918, Lord Leverhulme bought Lewis. One of his plans was to build a road across the Lewis Moor linking Tolsta and Ness, which would have replaced the old path. Although work commenced, by 1920 it had been paused, and he ultimately abandoned his scheme - one celebrated part is Garry Bridge, the so-called Bridge to Nowhere, which lies over the Abhainn Ghearadha, north of Tolsta.
Today, the community owned Galson Estate Trust promotes a modern Heritage Trail connecting the east and the north of Lewis as had the old path and has been intended by the failed road scheme. The Heritage Trail's 2023 leaflet is available both locally and online (scroll down and click its image), and in addition to describing its route in both directions, this provides information about the area's natural and cultural heritage.
There has clearly been an evolution of routes across the Lewis Moor, and the histories they connect will be of interest whichever you trace.
The route from Sgiogarstaigh to Tolastadh features in the Lewis episode of BBC Alba's series Tir Is Teanga, which is occasionally repeated on the iPlayer. Even if it's not available, you can get a taster from this clip instead.
